MULTNOMAH FALLS HISTORY

Updated May 23, 2014

The Coon Family Hiking Club
Background information.

Multnomah Falls is located at Exit 31 on Interstate 84. If you take Exit 31 you will find yourself in the Multnomah Falls parking lot. The only way to exit the parking lot by car is to return to I-84.

There is another parking lot for Multnomah Falls on the "Historic Columbia River Highway Scenic Byway," which can be accessed from the freeway by taking Exit 22 and running up a hill and connected up to it there, heading east. I highly recommend this route, because it will take you to Chanticleer Point, from which you have a very nice view of the Gorge, and then next you can take E. Larch Mountain Rood, which runs right to the top of Larch Mountain. (More on Larch Mountain in a bit.) The Byway will also then take you to Vista House at Crown Point, one of the best views of the Columbia River Gorge to be had from any road accessible area. These are both must see stops on the road! You also will pass by the trailheads for Latourell Falls and Bridal Viel Falls as well as the one for Angel’s Rest, and then you are on the way to the parking lot in front of the lodge at Multnomah Falls. If you wish to miss the scenic stuff and get to the Lodge as quickly as possible you might choose to take Exit 28 for Bridal Veil Falls. You will find that you will be right at easy access to both Bridal Veil Falls and Angel’s rest trailheads when you hit the Byway. And then before long you pass by the Wakeena Falls trailhead, and then you will find yourself at Multnomah Falls!

Finally, another alternate route you might choose, you can go up to Exit 35, and double back on the Byway, which will take you past Horsetail Falls, and the trailhead there leads up to Tripple Falls! On a busy day at Multnomah Falls, and that is everyday in the summertime and on most days with good weather, you might find that parking is easier along the stretch of road just east of the Falls parking lot, which may be all filled up. The freeway parking lot is larger, but it gets pretty full as well on a busy day.

So, what I recommend is, if you are planning a hike to the top of the falls or to the top of the mountain, show up early. At 8am you usually pretty much have he parking lot to yourself. By the end of your hike, especially if it is a long one, you will find the lot is jammed with cars.



Personal History



1974

Why is this falls so important to me? For me my love story with the beautiful Multnomah Falls all began on September 28th, 1974. Of course what made me fall in love with the falls, was because I was falling in love with the most wonderful woman in the world at the time, and it was to these falls that we went on our very first date alone together!

Some Background

It was only a few days earlier on Sunday, September 15th, that Dotti and I first laid eyes on each other. It was a clear day, that reached a high of 81 degrees, I was standing the Petty Officer of the Watch, dressed in my “dress whites” uniform, including a single chevron under the eagle on my left arm, and a 45 automatic on my hip, when I spied a group of young ladies heading for the gangway. When they came aboard, the Officer of the Deck directed me to open the bridge for the ladies, in order to allow them to tour the space. A few of the sailors onboard were Mormons, and these ladies were from their church. The sailors had invited them to come and take a short tour of the ship, which included a stop at the bridge. The outer hatch was padlocked closed, and I had the keys, so I led the group up the ladder to the hatch and stood by while they looked around.

One of the girls really caught my eye. She stood about 5′4″ tall, had short brown hair and dimples that jumped right out at me every time she smiled. She seemed unattached, and looked like she had a cheerful personality. I was sad when I had to lock up the space, and watch them leave. At the time I didn’t realize it, but I had just seen my future wife for the very first time. I can so clearly see Dotti standing there on the bridge, it is like it just happened yesterday. Great things were ahead of me, and only the flutter of my heart gave me a clue as to what they might be. Fortunately for me, one of the guys who attended their church was an electronics technician like me, and we worked together everyday. This was the ticket to what was to follow.

On Monday, September 16th, while Gerald Ford was giving his first, and painful, press conference after pardoning former president Richard Nixon I was discussing the group of ladies that had come onboard during my watch the day before with Bob, the aforementioned Mormon in my Electronics Technician shop. He told me that the church was going to have a volleyball game on Wednesday night, and the girls would be there, and I could come along if I wanted. I wasn’t so much interested in "the girls," but there was one girl I already had my sights on. I thought that coming along would be a very good idea.

Wednesday, September 18th, 2004, I finally I got to speak with Dotti, in the car on the way over. And before that I had just thought she looked great! She was bubbling over with things to say, and it was like sitting next to a mountain stream listening to her. The volleyball game got going and Dotti and I were on the same team. At one point she hurt her shoulder, an old injury that still troubles her from time to time today, and I was very concerned. Another girl was trying to pull me back into the game, but I would have none of it until I knew Dotti was okay. After the game, the church had a movie that we sat through, that promoted the church and explained some of the doctrines of the church. Dotti and I sat next to each other and I was asking her questions, and it seemed we were talking the entire time, because Bob was upset that I was not getting properly indoctrinated by the movie (he didn’t word it that way exactly, but it was what he was concerned about ) with all the time I was dedicating to listening to Dotti. We were actually talking about the movie most of the time, so Bob’s concerns were unfounded.

By evening’s end, Dotti and I were really hitting it off. She said that the Mormons were having an ice skating party on Friday night and she was wondering if I would be interested in coming along. I said, "Sure!" However, I had to tell her that I had to go down to Tiller and return my mom’s car to her before our ship pulled out to sea on Saturday. I was flying back up on Friday afternoon, and I wasn’t sure if it would be early enough to make the party. But I told her that I would try. What I told myself was that I was going to make it back in time if I had to fly the plane myself to hurry it along. I knew Dotti was very special already, and by the end of that upcoming Friday night, I knew that I was going to marry her someday, but I am getting ahead of myself.

Friday, September 20th, I had my second chance to talk with Dotti.

The day started with me in southern Oregon, and my Mom driving me to the Medford Airport to catch a plane back up to Portland.

I landed in Portland in the afternoon, and my friend Bob picked me up at the airport. He said, "Dorothy has been asking about you, and whether or not you are going to be there tonight." That did my heart good. It is always a good sign with a lady you are fond of is asking about you!

As it turned out, it was going to be a busy evening. First of all, we were going to be spending some time at a local ice skating rink and having some fun. We then were going to the guys’ apartment for a "cleaning up party" before our ship headed out to sea the next day. (This ship’s deployment was unfortunate timing indeed for what I wanted to be doing instead.)

Bob drove me to the ship from the airport, where I picked up a few things... including a pair of dress pants for me to wear that night ice-skating, my guitar, and my music book. We drove over to the apartment the Mormon guys were sharing, where I got changed. When I finally got see Dotti, she and her roommate chuckled at how fancy I had gotten dressed up, and said that she was duly impressed, and told me to go back and put on some jeans for the ice skating, just in case I took a fall. I figured if she didn’t mind my being comfortable, that was fine with me.

We finally all made it over to the rink, and got our skates. Soon we were on the ice. Now Dotti and I came from really different skating backgrounds. She was born in New York, and lived in Vermont for a while. She skated like she was born to it. In the winter, when she lived in Rutland, Vermont, there was a field at the Rotary Club that they flooded with water, and it froze up into a really great skating rink. All winter long she went there and skated. She was a natural.

I was born in Southern California and thought ice was something that you got out of your freezer for your glass. I had successfully roller skated once in high school, and that means I could go around an oval without falling down, if I went slowly. I had accomplished the same feat one time on ice skates on a church outing in the early summer of 1970. But that was the extent of my skating history. The only skating thing that I had to brag about by evening’s end was that I had not fallen down at all, but it was close. I skated slowly and poorly around and around near the railing so I could grab it if needed.

Dotti skated hither and yon, doing figure eights, loops and all sorts of other fancy things. She could go around the rink a dozen times in the time it took me to go once. I was very impressed. Even when she fell she looked good doing it. But I even more enjoyed the times when she slowed down to my pace, and pulled me out into the middle of the rink and got me to speed up a bit. And then the best time was when we stopped and talked at the rail and I got to know the woman that I was rapidly falling deeply in love with. We talked of life, love and morals. We spoke of so many things and our views were so similar in so many areas that it was almost spooky. Like a minor who had been digging for years and who suddenly picked out a chuck of pure gold, I knew this was what I had been looking for all of my life.

There was one point along the way, while we were at the rink, where something was lost or missing. It may have been before we even started skating. I don’t even remember what it was, but I do remember that Dotti had to go back to her place to get the missing item, and naturally I offered to join her. It was close enough to walk to, but we decided to run instead. There was something about that little run that sticks in my mind. The active spirit, the athletic side of this beautiful young lady was just one more thing that I loved about her.

After the skating, there followed the housecleaning party. The Mormon girls came over to join in, and the place was put into shape fairly quickly. At one point I sat down with my guitar, while Dotti was finishing up some cleaning in the kitchen. A few of the girls sat down to listen. Dotti stuck her head around the corner of the kitchen every once in a while and smiled at me, and I knew all was right with the world. I was playing every song for her, even though she was out of view most of the time.

That night I spent in the apartment with the guys, and after the ladies had gone home, I wrote my very first letter to Dotti. I didn’t have any writing paper, but I did have an envelope. So, I steamed the envelope all the way open, and wrote my letter on the inside. It was undated, and began, "Dorothy," and ended, "Love, Al" I won’t burden you with the rest. I filled up the side opposite the address panel, and then I sealed it all back up again and gave it to Dotti the next day when she came to see us off.

When she opened the envelope, she was looking everywhere inside trying to find the letter it contained. She finally figured out what I had done and opened up the envelope and read the letter. She said that she knew I was going to be one she was going to have to keep her eye on.

It was only a few hours until I wrote my second letter, which was my first on proper stationery. But that was on September 21st.

On Friday, September 20th, I had traveled from Southern Oregon to Portland in the north. On September 21st, the girls came down to the pier to watch the USS Ozbourne (DD 846) pull out, with the Mormon guys, and myself on it. It was the first time that Dotti and I were going to be separated by the Navy. It turned out to be one of many times. I gave Dotti the letter that I had written on the envelope and we said our goodbyes. Since we were just getting acquainted, it was rather formal, but I was really happy she had come down to the ship to see me off.

Later that day, I wrote my first letter to Dotti on real letter paper. I said, "This is really bad timing by me. A week ago I didn’t care if we were going to Alaska or San Diego or anywhere in the world. Portland wasn’t anything special. I’m afraid that is no longer the case. I finally walked into something special and now I have to go play Navy for a couple of months..." I was feeling pretty sad about the fact that we were going to be gone so long, especially so soon. But things didn’t turn out as bad as I feared.

The mail didn’t leave the ship all that often, so I didn’t put that letter in an envelope and drop it off yet. I continued writing the next day when we were in the Pacific, after making the 100+ mile trip up the Columbia River to its mouth. We had stopped at Astoria and loaded our ammunition. (They didn’t want a warship parked near downtown Portland carrying enough munitions to make a real mess if they went off.) We crossed the Columbia bar, where so many ships have wrecked over the years, and reached the Pacific Ocean. We turned south and steamed towards San Diego, where we were supposed to meet up with the fleet for maneuvers. But for once the gremlins did right by me. Murphy’s law took a day off, and the ship lost its spare boiler. We had to turn around about the time we hit the California border. For the second time in 3 days I was traveling from Southern Oregon to Portland, and I was even more excited this time! My letter for September 22nd started out, "We are headed North now..." I went on to explain how we were going to have to stop at Astoria again and offload our ammo, and then we would be heading home up the Columbia to Portland once more! I wrote, "Sounds good to me!"

One other thing I wrote in my letter was something unrelated, but I can still clearly picture the event in my mind’s eye, "We passed a large school of dolphins today. The whole ship’s crew was on the deck watching them leap. We were moving the same direction as they were, and they stretched out left and right... as far as we could see. It was really beautiful." I can still remember the clear sky, the blue water, and the dolphins leaping gracefully out of the water as they kept up with us.

At the end of the letter I stammered and stumbled around what I wanted to say. I was in love already and I knew it. But I didn’t want to move too quickly and scare her away. Dotti was already in my heart and there was never going to be anyway to get her out again. She is the best thing that ever happened to me!

Monday, September 23rd, we had reached Astoria. My letter said that the crew had not been notified yet of what the ship was going to do for sure. As it turned out the ship was not repairable at that time, with those facilities, and so we headed back to Portland the next day after unloading the ammo once more. I also wrote to Dotti, "You have captured my heart..." so I had stopped stumbling around a bit in 24 hours.

Tuesday, September 24th, 1974, the ship pulled into Swan Island in Portland. We scrambled off the ship as soon as they would let us go, and placed a call to the apartment where Dotti and some of her girl friends were staying. To the statement, "We are at Swan Island," Dotti replied, "I didn’t know there was a Swan Island in San Diego." When she understood that we were back in Portland and would heading over to see her in just a few minutes she squealed and said that she was going to have to scramble. It was in the evening and she was already in relaxed attire, washed her hair and was generally not ready for company. But she set a record in getting ready because she looked just great by the time that we arrived.

The next few days were a blur. I spent every free moment with Dotti. September 28th, we had our very first date together alone, and yes it was here, and Multnomah Falls. A shipmate of mine, named Bob Yarbrough, a fellow electronics technician on the USS Ozbourn DD 846, offered to loan me his truck for the date, and Dotti and I drove out to Multnomah Falls.

The weather was perfect for a climb, dry, with the high only reaching 73°F, but starting off cool. We climbed to the top and had a wonderful day. The trail went up and up, and we talked and we were at the top before I knew it. I am so glad that ship broke down when it did, because it led to such a wonderful time for us during the next few weeks. Those were magical wonderful days, and the really cool thing is, they have never stopped. Dotti was, is, and will be the most wonderful thing to have ever happened to me in my entire life, and it all started in September of 1974, and these beautiful falls will always be our special place!

1984

Move forward 10 years. Life had taken us by the scruf of the neck and moved us hither and yon. We had been to Augusta, Georgia, Spokane, Washington, Midway, Island, Lemoore, California, El Paso, Texcas, Cleveland, Ohio, and finally Virginia Beach, Virginia. I am not sure what moved us to try it, but we desided on taking a trip by train out to Oregon, departing from Newport News, Virginia. The trip took 3.5 days each way and we were completely sick of coach cars on the Amtrak trains by the time we got back. Like boot camp, it is something I am glad I did once, but don’t ever that to do again. Sleeping in those seats, whild sitting up, was unpleasant. The one really positive thing about the trip was LeRoy being so good. (He was only 7 and had to make do with keeping himself occupied a lot of the time.) He and I went up into the viewing car, and watched the farmlands go by, which I hope he enjoyed as much as I did.

Our train trip terminated in Klamath Fall, Oregon. We visited my mother and her husband, and then we took a trip up to Portland. We saw Dotti’s family and her old high school. (My old high school was next to Mom’s place and we visited that too. LeRoy and I played catch on the old softball field where I played in high school.)

But since it was the 10th anniversary of our first climb to the top Multnomah Falls, we had to go back and do it again! It was not as easy as the first time, and I stupidly cut some of the switchbacks, and got really winded as a result, but we did make it to the top.

1995

When we moved back out to Vancouver in 1995, we made a try at going up the falls hike again. It wasn’t our 20th anniversary of our walk, but it was close. But we were both overweight and not in shape to do it. We had to stop after only going up about a quarter of the way. However, in 1996, we did make it to the top, even though it was trough.

In 1998, Dotti dropped 100 pounds and was in much better shape, and so it was getting easier to get to the top of the falls!

2002

In 2002, Dotti took a fall, and she hurt her knee, and we decided that our dear friends Jim and Tammy would like to take a hike to the top of the falls, Dotti waited at the bottom and I took our friends to the top on September 1, 2002.

Then on September 14, just a couple of weeks later, Dotti and I took a hike to the top of the falls! Her knee had been feeling much better and so we decided to go to Multnomah Falls again and see how far her knee would let her comfortably walk. We made it all the way to the top! She was more tired from the lack of exercise, because her knee has held her up all this time, than she was bothered with her knee. We had our walking sticks, and that helped take some of the strain off the knee. Coming back down was the real test, because the path is so steep that it puts a lot of pressure on the knee. We took it really slow, and Dotti leaned on the walking stick a lot, but she made it all the way down without injury or incident! We were really happy with how it went.

Also, it was on that hike that we had the previledge of seeing brand new asphalt most of the way up the trail and near the top, we got to see the machine on the trail that lays the asphalt down. It was like a small tractor, or ridable lawnmower, in size. We were happy that after all these years we finally got to see what they were using to put the surface down on our favorite trail.

2003

I had dropped my excess weight and Dotti and I were doing some hiking in 2003. We started up the Coon Family Hiking Club and were walking many trails in the Columbia River Gorge. Our first Official Coon Family Hiking Club hike to the top of Multnomah Falls came on September 6, 2003. It was wonderful for me to document our hike, which commemorated our first date, nearly 20 years before! And it was nice that simply just getting to the top of the falls was not as great a challenge as it once had been.

And there are other ways to get to the top of Multnomah Falls. The Wahkeena Falls Loop will allow you to go up to the west of the Multnomahy Falls trail, circle over above Multnomah Falls, and then drop down to the top of the falls. We have done that more than once:

Wahkeena Falls Loop - July 05, 2003

Wahkeena Falls Loop - October 12, 2003

Of course we had another official function that included a walk to the top of the falls, and that was our Saturday, May 3rd outing, during our Third DWLZ Conference in 2003. And our dear friend Tom allowed us to post his photos of that outing as well: Tom Kreider’s great photos!

2005

We would have loved to have been able to hold the fifth conference somewhere more centeralized in the country, but alas, it wasn’t meant to be. So, we revisisted Multnomah Falls again for our Saturday, April 23rd outing, during our Fifth DWLZ Conference in 2005.

2007

Multnomah Falls APRIL 5, 2007

Larch Mountain August 28, 2007

Geology



No matter how you look at it, the Pacific Northwest is one of the craziest places on earth for geology. If it was major and destructive, it happened here. From thousands of feet of ice scraping across the land, to thousands of feet of lava running wild across Idaho, Washington and Oregon, to thousands of feet of churching ripping water running at freeway speeds gouging out rock trenches and scouring the sides of the Columbia River Gorge, and volcanoes popping off up and down the Cascade Mountain range, this is the place it has happened. We have all heard of Mount St. Helens, but that was a fire cracker compared with Mount Mazama, who blew her top right off, exploded her magma chamber out from under the mountain top, emitting between 11 and 14 cubic MILES of debris, and the center collapsed into a caldera that now it has filled up with rain and snow water, is nearly 2000 feet deep! In fact it is the deepest lake in the USA. Ash from this explosive eruption covered nearly all of Oregon, Washington, northern California, Idaho, Montana, parts of Utah Nevada, Wyoming, Alberta, British Columbia and Saskatchewan. Man what a show! And despite all of that, it left behind, for us to enjoy, one of the most beautiful sights in all of nature, in Crater Lake.



Most of the state of Washington was created by tectonic plate action as the North American Plate moved westward and ran into island land masses and drove them into the moving plate, collecting them like baseball cards, adding more and more land as time went by.

Two hundred million years ago, most of what is currently the state of Washington did not exist, at least as a contiguous body of land. There are at least 4 terranes, land added to what was already there. If you go way back, 750 million years or so, Spokane, Washington was beachfront property! It was sitting on the Rodinia supercontinent at the time, but it was water, and more water off to the west. The land where Larch Mountain, and Vancouver, Washington are sittind today, was far out to sea from the continental mass.

Then along about 350 million years ago, an island land mass came to visit and decided to stay, and the continental land mass moved west, and "docked" with the smaller Kootenay terrane. It still was not much of a trip to the ocean from Spokane, a few tens of miles.

But then, about 190 million years ago, a much larger chunk of land hit the moving contentent, or the continent hit it rather, when the Intermontane Superterrane "docked" and brought in the land which today holds the Grand Coulee, and its famous dam. The Pacific Northwest was growing!

Apparently there was more land lying not too far to the west, and 120 million years ago, the Insular Superterrane joined the party as it docked to the west, bringing in the land where Seattle sits today, much of Britich Columbia, and Vancouver Island as well. Still, to the south of Spokane, the ocean was nota ll that far away. Walla Walla, and the southwestern portion of Washington had not come long just yet.

Next was added a huge block of land created from sandstones and volcanoes arriving 65 million years ago, about the time the dinosaurs decided to move on to the next plane of existance, and continuing on to 20 million years ago. It was during this time that the land that now holds Vancouver, Washington, and Larch Mountain, came to stay.

But we were not finished yet. The final terrane to arrive was the Siletz-Crescent Superterrane, showing up between 37 and 25 million years ago. There is some overlap in time between the last two additions, probably uplifting from the collisions bringing ocean bottom up, since sandstone is formed in water, and volcanoes seem to follow continental collisions.

Then something happened that is simply mind boggling to me. The Columbia River Basalt Group cut loose over a period of 17 million years ago, to 6 million years ago. The land in Spokane we were speaking of before, got buried by this lava. The house where Dotti and I lived in Spokane was sitting on a 400-foot plateau created by this basalt flow. But the source of the flow may very well have been the Yellowstone hot spot! When that volcanic plume came into existence, whether from an asteroid strike, or some other cause, suddenly thousands of feet of lava poured out over the Columbia Plateau, causing the land to sink under the weight! It ran through the Columbia River Gorge, into the Portland area, and all the way out to the Pacific Ocean. Imagine it: from Idaho to the ocean covered by one layer of lava. What a mess! And the heat. Can you imagine how long it would take for that much molten rock to cool off?

With all of this colliding of contents and such going on, oceanic plates have run under the North American plate, causing uplift and then as the ocean bottom gets pushed deep enough it melts and becomes magma, and some of that percolated up to the surface and creates, you guessed it, volcanoes! Enter Mount Mazama/Crater Lake, Mt. Shasta, Lassen Peak, Mt. Hood, Mt. Rainier and the rest of the Cascade volcanoes.

And of course there was the Boring lava, which poured out from 2.7 million years ago, or perhaps a bit earlier, and continued on until around 300,000 years ago. The city of Portland, Oregon is riddles with volcanic peaks. Sylvin Peak gives home to the Oregon Zoo these days. Mt. Tabor, Rocky Butte, Scott Mountain, and the Boring Lava peak farther to the east is Larch Mountain.

Larch Mountain is a shield volcano, something like the Island of Hawaii. When lava pours out and runs around like water, it spreads out, and piles up and forms a shape that is resembles a shield. It does not create one of those marvelous Mt. Fuji like peaks, as Mount St. Helens used to have, but it does have a distinct crater. Larch Mountain’s crater, was more traditionally round at one time, but there came an ice age, and a glacier formed on this peak, and its ripping, power tore down the north east wall of the crater, and left an amphitheater shape, not unlike the one that Mount St. Helens sports today, for a completely different reason.

Today the crater is the source of Multnomah Creek, coming from an underground spring, which flows all year long. The water flows down the mountain and, after passing over Multnomah Falls, and through a small lake, it ends up running into the Columbia River, to be returned to the Pacific Ocean, to evaporate, rise into clouds and then rain back on the land once more.

There was a time when Multnomah Creek flowed gently into the Columbia river, down a gradual slope. It took another catastrophic event to change that gentle slope, into a massive drop, over a perpendicular wall! What happened?

The last period of glaciation occurred from 110 thousand, to 12 thousand years. It was a horrible time, for nearly all of the land that is today Canada, and much of the northernmost parts of the United States, because thousands of feet of ice covered the land. Climate change can be far worse than warming up, when it cools down.

Bretz Floods 15 - 13 thousand years ago Then came the next super event: the Bretz Floods.



And speaking of volcanos, there is one that may make Mount Mazama look small, based upon its running track record: Yellowstone! Sometime in the distant past something ignited a hotspot, under the North American Plate, near where the border of Idaho and Oregon is today, or rather that location was over the spot that Yellowstone park is located today, and has since moved west. Along the way, the volcano, or super volcano rather, created by the hotspot, has blow over and over again, gouging out the Snake River Plain, and cut a path right through the massive Rocky Mountain chain! Today, it sits there percolating away making everyone wonder when it will get up and roar again. That is one monster we want to keep sleeping!

And when fire and lava aren’t cooking, ice and water might be. During the last ice age we had to major rivers blocked by glaciers. The mighty Columbia River was rerouted into first Moses Coulee, and then finally Grand Coulee. Remember that the Columbia River cut right through the rock of the Cascade Mountain Range as it rose into the air, creating the Columbia River Gorge. But ice over a thousand feet thick slid down into the path of the is mighty river and blocked it completely, backing the water up until it reached the mouth of the Grand Coulee and it poured into that new channel, and it created the largest water fall this planet has ever seen: The Dry Falls. This actually shortened the course of the Columbia River and it rejoined its old course after passing through the Grand Coulee, continuing on through the Columbia River Gorge and out to the Pacific. If there had been no channel for bypassing the ice dam, it might have done something even more spectacular than what was done by the Clark Fork River later, but we will never know.

The Clark Fork River is a lot smaller than the Columbia River, but it too was blocked by a glacier. The only trouble was, there was no alternate path for it to take. The water just backed up and backed up and covered the area where Missoula, Montana sits today. I have seen the lines on the hills surrounding Missoula where the lake, today called "Lake Missoula" sat for a time cutting a surface mark on the hills. In time the water had built up 500 cubic miles behind the ice dam, creating a lake that was larger than some of the Great Lakes, and half the size of Lake Michigan the largest of the Great Lakes!

Well, finally, the water got to a level where it floated the ice dam, shattering it almost instantly into ice chunks, some carrying boulders the size of boxcars in them! Suddenly 500 cubic miles of water was on the move, and it was running along at freeway speeds. The level of water was 500 feet as it passed over the land where Spokane, Washington sits today, and it built up to over 1000 feet in the Columbia River Gorge. Today you can see the rock exposed high up on the walls of the Gorge by the water ripping through.

Leaving that water there for a moment, let’s think about our little Multnomah Creek. It was flowing down off Larch Mountain, like any good creek would. It ran down gradual slopes all the way out and gently emptied into the Columbia River. Now bring on the huge wall of water, 500 cubic miles of it, and it ripped through the Gorge like a chainsaw through a Douglas Fir. The basalt walls were first exposed and then torn away, leaving sharp drops where once gental slopes had been. Once the flood was passed by, our little creek was denied the gental run to the river, instead it found itself dropping hundreds of feet down a sharp rock wall, before finally finding that gentle course into the Columbia once more. Once again, unspeakably violent geological events had left something beautiful and wonderful behind in its wake. Larch Mountain. Shield Volcano. Liquid lava flows over wide area. The tallest of the Boring Lava volcanoes. The Gorge runs east to west generally. That means the Oregon side of the Gorge is mostly in shadow, since we are more than half way to the north pole from the equator. The sun can never rise to the full zenith anywhere on the planet either north of south of 23.5 degrees latitude, due to the tilt of the earth relative to its obit path around the sun.

We mark these two points on every globe as the "Tropic of Cancer" in the north, and the "Tropic of Capricorn" in the south. They both lie on 23.5° north and south respectively. The only state in the US that lies south of the Tropic of Cancer is Hawaii. Even Midway Island, which once sat atop the Hawaiian hotspot, is today north of the Tropic of Cancer.

On the summer solstice, in the northern hemisphere, the sun stands directly overhead all along the line of latitude at 23.5°N. Anything north of that still has the sun as high in the sky as it can possibly get, but it is not overhead. (At the north pole it is still pretty low on the horizon.) And of course then the sun turns around and starts heading south. Multnomah falls is at 45.5760° N, 122.1154° W, and that puts us over 22 degrees north of any possibility of having the sun directly overhead. (One degree of lattitude is about 69 statute miles, so we are 22 x 69 = 1518 miles north of the Tropic of Cancer.) In fact at the very top of its travels on the summer solstice it only reaches about 68° off the southern horizon here.

The point of this is that much of the time the southern wall of the Columbia River Gorge lies in shadow most of the time. On the other hand, the northern wall of the Gorge is in sunlight a lot more often. This causes the Washington side to be drier and as a result, there are far more waterfalls on the Oregon side of the Gorge, including the beautiful Multnomah Falls.




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