On our fifth CFHC hike we started from Al’s Mom’s house in Tiller, Oregon and drove 28 miles and ended up in the Umpqua National Forest. Al’s Mom had gone to the ranger station nearby and talked with the ranger there, and got some maps and info on hiking trails. The Fish Lake Creek trail was recommended. So, that was the one we chose.
It turned out to be quite different than we had expected. The area had suffered a forest fire during the last fire season, and it felt sort of like walking through a city that had been hit by a nuclear blast, or what the area around the perimeter of the blast zone of St. Helens when she blew must have looked like. There were trees that had suffered differing amounts of fire damage directly. Others had been weakened by the fire, and then had toppled because they succumbed to the erosion of flowing water under their root system because the vegetation that would normally hold it back was burnt away. It was a dismal scene. On top of that, there was a large population of mosquitoes that inhabited the area. Every time we paused for a moment to study the area, or to take a picture, the little bloodsuckers swarmed us. Although we were getting fairly warm by the end of the hike, we left our jackets on until we were back at our car. As we were getting back to the parking area, we came across another hiker who was planning on backpacking in to the lake, to spend the night. We mentioned the mosquitoes, and he said he was prepared for them. Apparently the pests are a regular problem in these parts. He showed us his mosquito repellent (Muskol brand) and he claimed the mosquitoes wouldn’t touch him, even though his clothing protection was only shorts and a tee shirt. We are going to look that stuff up the next time we are in a sporting goods store! |
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I snapped this picture of my watch, showing 06:01, as we were getting ready to load up the car. We wanted to get an early start because the high temps had been getting up into the 90s and we didn’t want to do any heavy hiking in those kinds of temperatures. | |||
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This is the South Umpqua River, and I took this picture before we started, because we would be following this river for most of our driving trip. Also, I think it is one of the prettiest rivers I have seen. It runs past my Mom’s house, and continues on down beside the road that runs through downtown Tiller, and 7 miles farther downstream it passes Milo Academy, my old high school. (LeRoy also attended that school for a couple of years.) |
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Dotti is already ahead of me, heading for the start of the trail. In the background the fire damage is beginning to be visible. |
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At the start of the trail there was this “bulletin board.” On it there were rules, recommendations and warnings. At the top was a warning about the burned watershed. We saw the results of that later on the trail. On the left was a request that all hikers register by lifting the lid of the box below, taking a form from a pad of them, filling out the form and dropping it into a collection box inside. The form wanted to know the starting date, and expected ending date of the hike, the number in the party, the destination location, and our zip code. I guess it was in case we didn’t come out they would know to send in the dogs after us. |
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There were two trails we could have taken to go to Fish Lake. This one (1570) is the shorter one, and at this point in our hike, we actually planned to walk the 4 miles to Fish Lake and back. As it turned out, because of the mosquitoes mostly, we only walked half of the way there. |
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The carbon scaring on the base of this tree was a preview of what was to come all along this trail. |
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Trees looking brown and dead, bark ripped from their surfaces, and many of them laying on their sides on the ground pushed into our view at every turn. Compared with the beautiful greenery that we had witnessed during our drive up this was a real shock. |
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From the base of this burnt stump, it looks like it may have once supported a very large tree, but no longer. In the background you can see the sun cutting through the trees. Most of this walk we were in shadow. It was still fairly early and we were surrounded by mountainous terrain that blocked the sun. Fortunately, it kept the temperature down for us, so we didn’t have to take off our coats in the face of the unrelenting onslaught of the mosquito brigade. Unfortunately, it gave an eerie quality to the photographs. |
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Trees are here lying on their sides, crisscrossing over each other in a jumbled pile. It is difficult to image the beauty that this area must have possessed before the fire ripped its way through. |
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The sun is cutting through this bleak landscape, as Dotti makes her way ahead. |
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A reminder of the water runoff that occurred as a result of the burnt out watershed. |
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It is difficult to believe, looking at this picture, that there was not a cloud in the sky. If a mountain trail could represent the entirety of life, this would depict a very sad time indeed. |
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The water is flowing, but even the river has not overcome the fire damage visible in the foreground. |
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This section of path shows more green and looks less damaged by the fire. However the tree to the left is a reminder of what this forest has gone through. |
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There was one point along the way when Dotti stopped leading and decided she would rather follow. She came up to place where a huge spider web was blocking the path ahead. Right in the middle of the web, and hence in the middle of the trail, was a very large spider. I think Dotti was still thinking about that spider when I snapped this picture.
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This tree had fallen across the creek before the fire I believe. However, the fire did run along the top of the tree as it lay there. It still forms a bridge across the creek, but we didn’t walk it. |
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Another shot of Fish Lake Creek. The foreground looks damaged while the background looks like it is still in good shape. |
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A dark and desolate path. |
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This shot includes a small creek, a burnt tree stump, and some greenery that survived the fire. |
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The trail has a small amount of green on both sides of it at the grass level, and some greenery on the left even climbing into the air a bit. |
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A green branch hangs in front of a couple of burnt hulks. |
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Struggling back, the path is here passing through an area of forest that is showing some signs of recovery. |
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This rock is covered in moss, and gives a clue to how wet and green this area used to be. |
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Dotti stopping for a moment with two large trees framing her. |
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This tree is standing there covered in growth, that we have seen in other forests, where the lush growth is running wild. It is another indicator of what this forest looked like before the fire. |
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The scenery around her has not improved much, but here Dotti is brightening the forest up with her beautiful smile. |
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Once again we are faced with burnt and fallen giants. |
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Looking back at Dotti, way off in the distance. There are two large fire damaged trees between her and I at this time. The tree trunks in this area look like dead hulks with very little green to brighten their branches. |
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It’s about time! It was 07:58 when the 2 mile mark, or halfway point, was reached. |
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Success! Two miles completed. Doesn’t Dotti look happy? Well, it has been nearly all uphill to this point. |
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I had Dotti snap this picture when we were back in the car. Between the last watch shot and this one, we stopped to take pictures at the top, took, a restroom stop, and visited with another hiker who was heading up to go camping. So, of the 44 minutes that are registered here, probably only around 30 of them were actually done walking. At the 2-mile point, I put the camera into my backpack, and we were stepping out all the way. We were getting warm in our coats, but we were not going to let the mosquitoes feed on us all the way down. I set my stopwatch at the beginning of the walk and when we got back it had been 1:33:19 since we started. So, we left the coats on and made good time. This was the end of the hike, but not of the trip... |
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Driving out from the Fish Lake Creek trailhead, we had to cross a bridge. Since hadn’t seen a single car on the back road we were on (other than the one the other hiker was unloading his stuff from in the parking lot at the trailhead) we just stopped on the one lane bridge and shot some pictures. This one was taken by Al out the driver’s side of the downstream view. Note the lack of burnt trees. How refreshing!
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Dotti took this photo of the upstream view from the bridge. Absolutely beautiful! |
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South Umpqua Falls
On the road heading back was the turnout for one of the prime attractions of the area. Ever since my high school days people have made their way to “the falls” to go swimming on hot days. As kids they begged their parents to take them to the falls, and as parents they take their kids to the falls. By what they meant was the South Umpqua Falls.
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All around the falls area are trails and picnic tables. |
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There are wooden fences, well kept paths and plenty of green. |
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This is the view of the falls from the platform. Notice that there are no other people than us at the falls. This is because it is not even 09:00 yet. The water is cold and the air temperature is still just comfortable for tee-shirts. In a couple of hours the place will be jumping with kids and parents having a ball and keeping cool in the 90 degree weather.
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These falls are interesting because the South Umpqua River flows over a rock formation at this point. On the far side of the river, the rock is almost completely smooth. There are some light rapids but nothing much. Just to the right of center on this picture are the actual falls. The water falls a few feet into a little pool and then continues on its way. At the center, and to the bottom of the picture, you see that the water is very shallow, just skimming across the rock in a thin sheet. When I jumped out onto that rock (which will be completely dry later in the summer when the river is lower) I had to be very careful to avoid hydroplaning on the water, but I didn’t have to worry much about soaking my feet, because the water is so shallow at that point. |
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Here I am standing in the water, but my shoes are nearly dry anyway. Dotti is looking over the fence at her silly husband who is walking in the water. |
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This is a little “alternate falls” on the close (north) side of the river. At the bottom of the picture the water is running in a sheet so thin that it looks as if the rock is just wet rather than carrying running water over it. |
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This is a shot looking directly across the river at the stand of trees on the other side. The middle white one, dead but standing in stark contrast to the green one right behind it, and to either side, was the reason that I snapped the picture. To the left there is another dead one, but it is black in color and harder to see against the dark background. |
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This is the upper level of the fish ladder that was put in place to help the migrating fish traverse the falls. The water from above the falls runs into this section from a channel that runs directly underneath the wooden viewing platform where we were standing. It then runs down the ladder to the U-turn at the bottom... |
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Remember that bridge in the burnt out forest? One day it will look like this again! |
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One of the many picnic tables in the area. |
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Here is Dotti “patiently” waiting, because I forgot to unlock the van. Oops. (Sorry Dotti!) |
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The wooden fence really blends in well with the environment here. |
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The official South Umpqua Falls Picnic Area sign. |
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On last look at the road leading into the parking area for the falls. (The van is just around the corner on the right.) |
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Although the hike ended up being shorter than planned, it still was a good walk, and we saw some things that were unusual. Dotti and I had fun, and we were happy that we had the chance to end by visiting the falls because the scenic beauty was saw there, was what we love the most about our hikes normally. We would have felt a bit deprived if we had not stopped there. Next week it is back to the Portland area for our CFHC hike. |